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There will be a final cut-off for ordering any reprints or replacement paints of May 31,2026, and will be limited to paints still on hand and being able to print on our leased printers.
PATTERNS AND INSTRUCTIONS:
A common occurance is for patterns and/or instructions to become lost. People typically take out the instructions and patterns for a quick look, then they become fall into the magic lost zone of "things I will get to soon" but never do. Or kits were acquired second hand and missing the critical paperwork for exactly the same reason just stated. We do not "stock" extra printing, but are happy to reprint copies for you, including digging out of archives older kits or patterns to do so. There is a small fee based on the number of sides with a cap at $18. A mailing and handling charge of $2.95 will be added for addresses in the US unless ordered with other items (no charge).
NOTE: Sale discounts will not be applied to any reprints or replacement paints.
TO ORDER REPLACEMENT INSTRUCTIONS & PATTERNS:
• To order replacement instructions & patterns for an older kit click the Add to Cart at the end of this paragraph to order replacement pages. On your order form is a Notes box. Here please designate the name of the kit and which pages you will need. Or you may state "all". We will then calculate your order at the rate of $1.50 per side (capped at $18) and add the minimal shipping and handling fee of $2.95 unless part of another order. Add
to Cart
• Many instructions and/or patterns from no longer available kits can be found by going to the OLDIES BUT STILL GOODIES section found in the upper menu. There you will find most older discontinued kits with links to get new instructions and patterns. |
FABRICS:
Additional pieces of fabric, unless they are among the basic fabrics we do keep selling, are nearly impossible to replace for older kits and sometimes not even for newer ones due to the fact that we do not maintain a large fabric inventory and fabrics come and go on the market so rapidly, it would be cost prohibitive to keep stocks for the future. The bottom line is that we cannot replace kit fabrics.
PAINTS:
As I draw my business to a close, I will no longer be able to replace paints.
Here is some information which may be of help for finding your own paints in the market:
OTHER MEDIUMS FOUND IN MY KITS: (Most of these are available at places like Michael's, Hobby Lobby, etc.
• Glue - this is almost always Aleene's Tacky Glue
• Varnish or Sealer - Mod Podge Matte
•Retarder - JoSonja Retarder Medium
•Antique - We have our own mix, but there are ones available. My own antiquing never dries up if kept closed.
• Stains - I like Minwax brand for oil base, but there are also water base ones.
• COLORS OF PAINTS - All of my paints have always been custom mixes of latex house paints. But, use any liquid acrylics in small bottles, there are mnay brands commonly available. Tips: Admittedly it is hard to tell looking at either a paint chart or the actual bottle of paint how it will really look when dry. Always have some white and burnt umber to help alter a color to be closer to what you want. If using white, remember to only add tiny bits of white at a time to lighten and if it needs to be more dusty or antique (less bright), add some burnt umber. If you will be using a lot of a color, once you have it, take a painted swatch to a paint store and have them match it in house paint. For blue eyes, stay away from actual blue. Go more toward gray which will look like real blue eyes on a doll. Cheeks and lips have some brown mixed in so they are not clown-like. I never use pure black. My black is usually half or more dark brown.
HINT: I actually don’t recommend house paints any more. We have had to change brands several times over the years as companies discontinue their lines and then the EPA keeps changing how paints can be made and so each change makes the paints harder to use and not as good pure colors. So, best bet is the better brands of craft acrylics sold in little plastic bottles. Take the dried up paint pot to the store and go for the closest match. If you can do this without getting in trouble, it is best if you can open the top and look at the actual paint, shaking to mix first. If you aren’t comfortable sneaking a peak, buy a few you hope will be close, take them home to look and then go back with the receipt and the rejects. No harm was done. Also have on hand a basic set of mixers to tweak with: Burnt Umber, White, a true red, true yellow, true blue, black and green. Mixing the right color is part science and part experience, but not easy. I learned color theory in college and even then that knowledge isn't always completely helpful. The reason is that paints are not pure color. Blue and yellow will not always make a great green.
HINT TWO: Mix in small quantities until you have what you want. At party supply stores (or online) you can buy little one ounce condiment containers with lids (like salad dressing comes in). These are great for your mixes.
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