MICRON PENS
These are used to make permanent very fine black lines and are called for in several of my kits for such things as eyes or at the very least they are good to sign and date your dolls with. They work well on cloth or painted cloth.
Black Micron $2.75Add to Cart
Brown Micron $2.75Add to Cart

SIMPLE DOLL FACE MAKING SET
A simple alternative for cloth doll faces (painted or cloth surface) is to use colored pencils (if "skin" is painted on doll face, paint must have some "tooth" - flat paint only). This replaces the old small set of colored pencils for doing "painted" faces with colored pencils. It now includes the 8 colored pencils, a brown Micron pen, two paints, one for lips (sometimes painted lips work best or you can use colored pencils), some eye hi-light as this must be dotted on with a toothpick (also included) and matte varnish to seal it all. Pencil sharpener needed. $11.50 Add to Cart

TRACING VELLUM FOR TRANSFERRING FACES
10 sheets of the special transparent vellum that can be used in laser printers or most copiers that use heat in the printing process. Line art faces (not color) printed onto this paper can then be ironed onto painted cloth for a perfect transfer to then paint or colored pencil in. Using a Clover iron (sold below) is recommended. $5.25 Add to Cart

EMPTY PAINT POT STRIPS ~ These are a superior small paint pot, 8 to a strip. Good for mixing and storing small amounts of paint or small doll buttons, etc. Set of 3 strips $3.25. Add to Cart

SMALL SQUEEZE BOTTLES ~ A painting must-have. Some of my most important tools are the small squeeze bottles that I keep handy for (1) retarder, (2) water, (3) turpenoid and (4) my dryer for my oils. They allow me to dispense just what I need drop by drop. Note that I also store all my basic acrylic colors in these as well, though this might be over-the-top for the average casual dollmaker. These allow me to squirt out just enough for the current painting session so that I do not have open paint containers  that are drying up future paint. Package of (4) 1 ounce bottles  (also a good travel size) - $6.50 Add to Cart

PAINT YOUR DOLLS WITH OILS ~ An instruction booklet with photos showing you my pretty foolproof ways of oil painting your dolls. Covers painting black dolls and antiquing made easy. New price $12 Add to Cart

GW'S FAVORITE PALETTE KNIFE ~ Has just the right narrow blade made of very thin metal which makes it best for cutting off small amounts, mixing and smoothing out colors on your palette. $5.50 Add to Cart

FACE PAINTING SET ~ To help people using just patterns, or making lots of dolls. A strip of larger sized paint pots with all the water based colors you need to do the detail work on any doll face. Combine this with a skin color paint, varnish and antiquing (all sold above) and you have all you need. Comes with tips, cheek painting Fantastix paint stick, toothpicks for shading and retarder medium. Note: Some dolls require gesso which is commonly available at arts and crafts stores. $5.50 set Add to Cart

EASY DOLL FACE MAKING SET ~ A simple alternative for painted cloth doll faces is to use colored pencils (paint must have some "tooth" (matte finish, not be too smooth). You have the most control as opposed to brushes, they can be erased until right, and if sealed properly, will last, especially for display dolls (not played with). NEW SET includes set of 8 special colors that will make blue or brown eyes, 2 paints for easy places, a brown Micron for all outlining and matte varnish to seal, round toothpicks for dots and complete instructions. Can also be used on bare cloth but a spray fixitive required. $11.50 Add to Cart

NEW - ALKYD OIL PAINTING TRIAL SET ~ Buying oils to just try a doll is very costly, but here is enough to paint many dolls (at least the detail colors and enough to paint one doll's skin color and more if you add some white). These are my favorite fast drying alkyd oils. Alkyds dry within a few hours as opposed to several days with regular oils. The set comes with how to mix the right colors and some basic getting started info. All you need is good brushes and turpentine or turp substitute. Oils dry out in small quantities, so do not order these until you are ready to use (I cannot guarantee how long they are usable - possibly a few months if not opened). We put them up fresh for each order. Once you decide you like using oils, then investing in your own full tubes (which last forever)will feel better. $12.75 Add to Cart

JUST CHEEK PAINT TO THE RESCUE ~ Use acrylics for all other painting, but use alkyd oils for at least cheeks for better, easier cheeks. If you will be using these paints soon after receipt, the best way to paint cheeks fairly effortlessly is with alkyd oils (fast drying oils). Oils allow you to easily feather out the edges using a dry brush and virtually no paint on your brush. Clean up with turpentine or turp substitute. You can then seal with varnish (recommended is Mod Podge Matte) and antique as usual. Included with the sets are a brush point Fantastik Paint Stick and a foam Q-tip, which replace and make easier putting on cheeks over brushes. Three small paint pots of three colors (Titanium White, Cadmium Red Deep, and Burnt Sienna) plus paint stick, foam Q-tip and basic instructions. $4.50 Add to Cart

COBALT DRIER ~ GAIL'S FAVORITE DRIER FOR OILS (ALKYDS  OR REGULAR) ~ Cobalt Drier is the only drier that dries really fast and hard without making the paints shiny. A drop or two of this old stand-by drier is all you need to make your alkyds dry in about an hour or so. Use caution as cobalt is dangerous if not used wisely. .5 oz container with eyedropper lid. $7.00 Add to Cart

NEW TIP: I recommend Turpenoid in a lot of my work where any oil painting is done. This product is odorless (well, a small odor is there to be honest, but not bothersome). I got in the habit of using it due to teaching where some students are sensitive to real turpentine. The tip is, make sure to get regular Turpenoid (blue can) and not Turpenoid Natural (green can or label). Only use the Natural for cleaning brushes or clothes and not as a medium for use on your painting. It contains additives to soften paints (for cleaning) so you will end up softening the underlying layers and they will not dry well. Perhaps not even last long once dried.

CHEEK APPLICATOR KIT ~ A small amount of fine silk, some wool and how to make a pouncer for ease in painted doll cheeks - a very troublesome area, plus all the tips I can think of because often that is what it takes. $2.25 Add to Cart

NEW - MORE CHEEK PAINTING HELP
FANTASTIX are like the insides of felt tip markers. They can be used to dry brush (blot or blush) on cheeks or other areas that need a blended-out look. Two sizes are available, fine tip and bullet tip and they are pretty much disposable, but can be used more than once if cleaned and caps put on. I find the fine tip good for small areas or very small doll cheeks and the bullet tip for all other doll cheeks or larger areas. They accomplish the same thing as the silk cheek tool above but are ready made and disposable. Packages of 6 each.
Fine Tip $6.30 Add to Cart
Bullet Tip $6.30Add to Cart
Combo Pack 3 of each $6.30 Add to Cart

HINTS FOR GOOD BRUSH MAINTAINANCE (Water based paints hints) - Do not overlook the importance of this step in good painting. If your brushes are hindering your painting quality, it is likely they have not been properly maintained or replaced. Get some Brush Cleaner (a powerful solvent to clean hardened paint), and some alcohol, an eye dropper or tiny squeeze bottle of water, some liquid soap (good is Dr Bronner's available in health foods or below) and if you admit you are the type to put your brush in the clean up water and leave it there, have some clothespins handy so you can suspend your brush in the water and not let it sit there with bristles resting on the bottom. While painting, clean your brush frequently and wipe and squeeze bristles flat in your rag. Do this nearly every dip into the paint for best results. Otherwise, the paint starts to glob and dry on the bristles. This seems tedious, but necessary. Also keep adding a drop or two of water to your paint and stirring with toothpick to keep it flowing - as you are painting, the surface is drying in the air, so adding a couple drops of water at a time replaces evaporated water. When you are done with a certain brush, rinse well in the water. Pour some alcohol in a small container (I keep one handy) or even just the alcohol cap and really work in the alcohol (even bending the bristles so it gets way inside where the damage begins as dried up paint starts to spread the bristles). You will be amazed at how discolored the alcohol gets. Once it is really clean, put a drop or two of the soap on the bristles, clean in running water and thensquish another drop of the soap into the bristles squeezing them flat and "pointing" the bristles like the brush was new. Let dry with soap in it and it is ready to use again. In cases where you forgot your brush and now the paint is dry and bristles stiff, decant a little of the Brush Cleaner mentioned above and soak the bristles till the dried paint is soft. Wipe off as much as possible with a rag, then repeat until it seems clean. Now finish up with the alcohol and soap. Do not overestimate how long a brush is good for. Even well-cared for brushes do not last very long. Owning new condition good quality brushes at all times will make your painting much easier, in fact, it may not be possible to paint well without them.

Dr. Bronners Magic Soap - 2 oz squeeze bottle. $2.75 Add to Cart